Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Balmain

    Pierre Balmain had a huge determination to remain true to his craft is demonstrated through the purity of his designs and the integrity of signature style. He was born in 1914 in Savoie, France where his family had already owned a drapery business. He was forced by his mother to study architecture, but by 1934 he started his job with Molyneux where he learns all about the art of couture. In 1945 he rents the premises at 44 rue Francios ler and on the 12th of October his label was born.


    Below are two dresses of Balmin from the 1953. The left one is a very chic elegant bridal gown with a lot of embellishments. It is a long tight dress with a sinched waist that makes the woman look taller and thinner. It is a strapless dress with a heart- shaped neckline which is a very feminine style. The beads threaded on the dress make a very beautiful patter and are not too much flashy. The dress is paired with a pair of very long white satin gloves, a pair of long shiny earrings and a of course a crown. The dress on the right is an evening dress which is also very chic, but fun, flirty and is less dressy than the gown. It is made out of a very beautiful white lace with sheer at the top part. It buttons down all the way from the top and has a lace belt to sinch in the waist. It is paired up with a pair of black glowes and a black big straw hat.






















    Alexander McQueen has designs very different to Balmain and the below gown is from the collection of Sprin/Summer 2011. I really like this particular one because it very different and unique. It is a very exotic gown made from feathers itself. It has a very bulky high low skirt. The shoes are also covered with feathers. This design is very different from Balmain’s, which were a lot more clean and chic. Alexander McQueen seems to be more adventurous in his designs.


Bibliography:
Marie Claire June 2013 http://www.pinterest.com/pin/13159023882605327/
Erin 2011 http://www.weddinginspirasi.com/2010/10/26/alexander-mcqueen-springsummer-2011/
All seen on the 29th of December 2014

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Harley Davidson

    William Sylvester Harley was born in 1880 in Wisconsin and from a very early age he showed a lot of interest in the early development of the bicycle. With his friend Arthur Davidson and Davidons’ brothers, he began outfitting bicycles with a motorized engine and in 1903 they formed the Harley-Davidson Motor Company that soon became the world's preeminent motorcycle manufacturer. The factory in which they worked was a 10 x 15-foot wooden shed with the words "Harley-Davidson Motor Company" crudely scrawled on the door. 

    They published their first bike in 1903, and what this had different from any other motorcycle built before was that the engine was integrated into the frame instead of being attached to the frame. This made the bike much safer, cleaner and more pleasing to look at. The frame of their first bike was very simple looking- very curvy and thin. Their tyres where think and huge, with the behind wheel bigger than the front one. The handles were very long and head backwards towards the seat. This bike was the beginning of their long carrier and they had designed some of the most classic motorcycles ever built. In many ways they had become the Americans spirit itself. By the 1919’s Harleys where so popular that you needed to be on the waiting list just to buy one!

 
    The 1908 motorcycle looks like it has more going on around the frame. There was attention to details in creating individual parts and connecting them together to form one whole shape. The part where you put your feet looks more well-made and the gas tank can be barely seen. Again, the frame of this design is very thin and minimalised with thin big tires.





    Later in time bike riders were interested more on speed than in style, and to create this combination they had to work directly with the racers to see what they really wanted. By 1922 the first 74 cubic inch V-twin engine is introduced on the JD and FD models. By now Harley-Davidson dealerships are now found in sixty-seven countries. This design of the bike was much bulkier than the previous ones. It looks manly and more powerful. It has a lot more going on around the engine and the seat is wider. The frame was starting to take more shape and developing slowly to a motorcycle we know today.                                                                                       Before, designs looked more just like a normal bike.


    The FL Duo-Glide motorcycle was built in 1958. This time, the design was a bit long with thicker but smaller tyres. It looks much more well built. The seating is a bit lower than what usually was designed and wider for more comfort. The body of the bike looked more like one piece and not small pieces put together. The hands are a bit high and the light bulb in front is huge. It was the first bike with hydraulic rear brake.



    The Vespa is also an all time popular motorcycle brand. Above is one their bike from 1945. The client profile of a Vespa buyer is complete different than a Harley Davidson one. As we see in the design the Vespa bike looks more of a daily used bike- a bike to use for everyday, go round town with it or go to work. On the other side a Harley Davidson bike is a sporty and fun one which you use for racing of for a long drive. The Vespa has all engines hidden and only the body, which is part of the seating is seen. Aesthetically, a Harley Davidson bike has much more going on. 

New designs are still being produced each year and with all their passion the Harley Davidson company will always be loved by bike riders!

Bibliography:
2010 Harley Davidsonhttp://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Content/Pages/HD_Museum/explore/hd-history/2010.html
2013 Harley Davidson http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Content/Pages/home.html
2008 http://vintagescooters.free.fr/english/vespa.htm
All searche on the 2nd of January 2014


Val Cushing

   On January of 1931, Val Cushing was born in Rochester, New York. He studied at the School of Art & Design, and after two years serving in the army he returned to work there as a teacher. He retired from the school after forty-one years and left a huge impact on all students that he met. His courses concerned clays, glazes and other related subjects. He travelled a lot to give lectures abroad, including in England, Norway Spain and in the island of Maui. Wherever he went, he challenged himself to give good memories to the students and to make friends. His pottery has received many awards and Honors, and his work has been exhibited in over 200 exhibitions around the world. His work was made with dedication and some where made to have a functionality and other to be visually beautiful as a sculpture. He looked for ideas and inspiration in various places, but mostly in nature. It is in nature that he found the rich colours, the dynamic textures and the harmonious forms that he loved to make.























The above four jars are from the same collection, as you can tell maybe because they have the same lid. Even though the lid is the same in each one, each jar has a complete different shape from each other. They have different forms and shapes. The one with brown tones looks very naturalistic especially with the shell- like forms at the bottom, while the blue and white ones are more vibrant and fun. Personally the all blue- one is the most aesthetically pleasing because it is very symmetrical in shape and also pattern and the bright blue glaze would give some life in a room. At the left is a jar made from Matthew Metz in 1961- around the same time of Val Cushing. The difference of this jar and the ones above is not only the fact that it has a more traditional shape of a jar, but also the decoration. First of all Metzs’ has not texture at all, but it is smooth from every angle, while the others have a lot of different textures and lines. Second, the painted pictures of Metzs’ are much less abstract than the other. You can tell that the artist wanted to paint trees and faces, even though they are not realistic, but in Cushings’ works you cannot tell what the artist had in mind when drawing those abstract patterns with the glaze. 

    On the left is a Val Cushing bowl which is a bit different than the other jars because it is more clean in shape and style. It has not texture but very smooth. The shape of it is very circular, circles on top of each other forming the shape of a bowl. This method is called coiling. The bright blue and white colours give it more of a fresh look. The vertical stripes on the bowl are a contrast to the horizontal coils of the clay.
On the left is Ursula Scheids’ cup made also in the twentieth century and I don’t know if it is a coincidence but the pattern glazed is almost exactly the same as Val Cushings’. The shape of the cup is more boxy than circular, it is kind of a diamond shaped. The vertical blue and white strips are the same as the ones of Cushing, they are fresh and vibrant and will give the room some energy.

Working in pottery dates back more than 20,000BC and today is still very popular and a must-needed material in our everyday essentials. Designs and patterns will always be invented and each ceramics should be very proud on what he can do with his hands.


Bibliography:
2013 Museum of Ceramic Art http://ceramicsmuseum.alfred.edu/collections/
2009 http://www.valcushing.com/gallery.html
All searched on the 2nd of January 2014

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Clothing from different parts of the world during the 1800's

    Many people today, don’t relies how much the world changed quickly in the last few years. Today we have internet and media that connects us to the other side of the world in no time. We can see what is happening live in Canada from Egypt through our cell phones. The media is making the world getting smaller and smaller. We are becoming like one big country. Our traditions and cultures have mixed so much that most countries today, have very similar lifestyles. The kind of clothing worn in a particular place is one thing that made countries different from each other during the 1800’s. I will talk about the different garments worn in different place two hundred years ago.


    In Brithian during the early 1800’s a man would most likely wear a waistcoat, tight trousers and close-fitting coats. The top hat and the cane were very fashionable. He would also wear a white cravat around his neck. The woman would wear a high wasted dress in light fabrics like muslin, cotton or silk and a short jacket. Bonnet was fashionable headgear. By the late 1840’s clothes became bulkier and corsets were very popular- woman starting wanting very small waists. Mustaches, sideburns and beards were worn by most men.


Gloves and matching Bonnet made from silk and straw from the 1860’s
The gloves were not worn just to keep the lady warm but they made the woman look very elegant and nice. The bonnet was a fun piece that made them look very feminine. 


Corset from the 1883 made from cotton satin, leather and whalebone
What I like the most about this corset is the colours. It is not a common think to find these two colours- yellow and orange worn together at this time (not even today). We are more likely to find clothes with natural colours than with vibrant colours like this. 


Waistcoat embroidered by Julia Norman for her husband John Montefiore made from silk
It is a typical buttoned up, tight waistcoat with embroidered decoration. During the 1800’s men in Brithian wore waistcoats for their everyday life, today, in Malta I have only seen men in waistcoasts only when they are getting married.


Woolen coat, silk waistcoat and cotton under waistcoat from the 1815-20
This is what a typical man used to wear. These clothes made the men very handsome, elegant and clean. They look very formal to us, today. But these were worn everyday also during the morning.

    Even tough France isn’t far away from England, during the 1800’s, the frech still had their own style of clothing. The french were the first to abandon the ornate, constricting and overbearing fashion of the 1700’s. They now wore flowing dresses inspired mostly from the designs of the Greeks and the Romans. Their clothing was very comfortable and flattering. Men pants were mostly high waisted and not so tight. The woman also wore the bonnet like in England. 


Bodice from 1865 made from Jacquared- woven silk
French clothes were mostly with bright colours like this. I really like the shape and style of this bodice, it must have made the woman look very pretty.

    Other countries, mostly easern, had to wear certain clothes not bacause they were in style but because of their religion. Like other religious minorities in Iran, Zoroastrians were requied to dress to identify their religion. They wore brightly coloured clothing and did not usually veil their faces. His created an obvious contrast with the outdoor clothing worn by Musilim women. A Zoroastrian woman would typically were a tunic (qamis), together with loose trousers (shalvar) gathered at the ankle. These trousers were made from textile remnants becaue there were restrictions on Zoroastrian buying full widths of fabrics. Woman covered their heads with a small fitted cal (lachak), over which they would wrap several shawls around their head and shoulders.


Zoroastrian woman’s tunic, trousers, cap and shawl, Yazd Iran from the 1840-70 made from cotton plain weave with silk embroidery
The colours and the pattern look very vibrant and the clothes look very comfortable.

    During the same time, also in Iran women of the Qajar court would have worn a combination of short jacket, gauzy open- fronted blouse and voluminious skirt. They would have henna- painted hands and feet, and sometimes even painted bodies. Iran was divided in separate parts, and each region had its own traditions.


Jacket, blouse and skirt from the 1800-40 made from woven silk with metal thread, silk embroidery and seed pearls
The pale pastel colours are very beautiful and the clothes look very comfortable unlike the corset that were worn in Brithian. 

    In the 19th century Iran and Afghanistan, Muslim women were usually fully veiled when they went out in public. They wore an outer layer over their indoor clothing and covered their faces. In Iran, this was often a sheet of dark blue or black textile worn with a white face- veil attached separately. Woman would have worn the burqa with matching loose- fitted trousers, with their skirts tucked inside. This outfit was worn with heeled slippers or boots.

Burqa with footed trousers from the 1850 made from white cotton with silk embroidery and green baize
It is a pity that women coouldn’t show their beautiful faces in public. This tradition is still going on in Iraq and Afgansthan.

Bibliography:
All information and pictures were taken personally from the V&A Museum in London in August 2013

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Ettore Sottsass

    Ettore Scottsass was an Austrian designer, but lived in Italy, from the late twentieth century. He was one of the founder of the Memphis Group, and also he designed iconic electronic products, as well as furniture and ornaments. He was one who always carried a camera with him, wherever he went, and photographed anything that interested him. He spent his whole career as a designer trying to change the past designs. He believed that everything should have a function. "When I was young, all we ever heard about was functionalism, functionalism, functionalism," he once said. After he graduated in architecture he was forced to join the army during World War 2. After the war he worked on housing projects with his father before moving to Milan in 1946. Over therehe spent the rest of his career working as and architect, industrial designer, painter and writing for Domus the design magazine. He travelled a lot for inspiration and visited places like India, Egypt and New York.

    Below are pictures of the Acme House in Maui By Ettore Scrottsass. The owners- Adrian and Lesley were involved in the design and cooperated directly with the designer. Before knowing that is a beach house I instantly recognized that this is a house near the see because of its bright and vivid colours. It is a two story building with high roofs built around a big garden filled with beautiful green grass. The outside of the building has five colours- green, red, white and purple. These colours fit in really well together and makes the place very colourful. Since the outside already has a lot going on with the colours, the shape is quite simple and very geometric. It is made out of cubes only, except the roof of one part of the house the is triangle. The railings of the balcony are also very simple- cubic. Since this house is by the sea, I bet it is a summer house. In fact one side of the house has a lot of big glass windows for light to get in and brightens the indoors. 





    The design of the architecture reminded me of the Neo-plasticism paintings. This building could have been inspired from Pierre Clerk painting because they both have only straight lines and bold statement colours only. In the painting there are a lot of abstract cubic shapes and lines. The colours of the painting are the primary colours, black, white and green, which have brighter tones than the one of the building.


    An iconic design of Ettore Sottsass is the Valentine typewriter released for the brand Olivetti on Valentine’s Day in 1969. It is a typewriter made from plastic with a fitted plastic case where you can slide it in easily. The colour for this machine was chosen red to fit the theme of Valentine, symbolises love and sex. This typewriter had a lot of feathers that included the carriage that dropped, tough it was the colour that made it memorable. Mr. Sottsass referred to his typewriter as the “anti-machine machine.” Forty years on it is still in demand among collectors, if not consumers.



Bibliography:
February 2009 Johanna Agerman http://www.iconeye.com/read-previous-issues/icon-068-%7C-february-2009/valentine-typewriter
19th October 2011 Jamie Derringer http://design-milk.com/the-acme-house-in-maui-by-ettore-sottsass/
1st January 2008 Robin J.Pogrebin http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/01/arts/01sottsass.html?_r=0&adxnnl=1&adxnnlx=1387627634-2kcXUd8Mkkne7TLusCpHrQ
All searched on the 15th December 2013

Thursday, December 19, 2013

House of Balenciaga

    He is known to be the king of cutting, Cristobal Balenciaga who spent his whole life refining from design to another. He is still well known mostly for his front raised hemlines, dolman sleeves, large buttons and the collar that sits on a band and stands away from the throat. His most famous period was in the 60’s after he designed a wedding gown that was phenomenal.

     In 1895 Cristobal Balenciaga was born in a small village in Spain. His mother was a dressmaker, so he was raised in the fashion industry. When he was only twelve he started his first apprenticeship with a tailor in San Sebastian and Madrid. In 1918 he opens his first fashion house in San Sebastian and quickly gains good reputation from Paris. During the Spanish Civil War Balenciaga was forced to shut down his business, and in 1937, he opens his fashion house in Paris where he was a huge success. 


    Above are two magazine covers with Balenciagas’ fashion work from the line of 1941. It was a collection inspired from the Spanish Renaissance dresses that caused a huge sensation. That year, the Spanish reports reported that sales in the three Spain based outlets were as high as ever. The collection was mostly of suites- all very elegant and feminine. The suite on the left is sewn mostly with velvet, very long high- waisted skirt with a balloon hem line to give more volume to the garment. The jacket has a quarter sleeve, with detailed embellishments and embroidery, mostly around the neckline and sleeve. It is very formal. On the other side, the suite on the right is with a shorter skirt. At the time the woman started going to work also in the office, and this garment is very ideal for this kind of work. It is made out of jersey, and the jacket has big staple buttons. The big shoulders makes it very elegant. 


    In 1950 Balenciaga shows his first collarless pieces, including raincoats and blouses as well as balloon dresses. Above are two pictures from this collection. On the left is a coat, which is a very modernist design and is very different from the one from the 1941. Contrary to the designs from before it looks more comfortable and not stiff at all. It is an easy to put on garment unlike the dress on the left, from the same year. The dress has a style, going back to the late 1800 with stiff corsets and bulky skirts.


     In 1960, Balenciaga travels to Madrid to make Queen Fabiola of Belgium’s bridal gown. This is the period of his career where he was known as one of the best designers of the world, with designs that are most refined. Queen Fabiola looked stunning in Baleciagas’ dress. It was a very simple dress but very elegant and well tailored. It had no details at all, unlike wedding gowns from today where the more detail they have the better they look. Balenciaga was very a very religious person and most of his work, including this bridal gown was inspired from the nuns and priests clothing.

     Below are two wedding gowns from 2013, the left of Paolo Sebastian and the other of Vera Wang. They are both very different from the one of the 1960. The have a lot of small detailing, beads lace and a lot of layers. Balenciagas’ gown is made all from satin while the ones from 2013 have a mixture of satin, sheer and lace. They all look very elegant, formal and feminine. 


    In 1968 Cristobal Balenciaga creates his last collection and in 1972 he dies. The business was handed to his nephews and in 1992 designer Josephus Thimister replaces them. The brand is still very famous and launches its collections twice a year, every year.

Bibliography:
2011 http://onthisdayinfashion.com/?p=8752
HPRINTS 2013 http://hprints.com/Cristobal_Balenciaga_1941_Evening_Gown-35318.html

The On-Line MA & RI Wedding Guides 2013 http://www.pinterest.com/maweddingguide/trends-for-2013-bridal-gowns/
 All searched on the 13th of December 2013

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Memphis Group

    The Memphis Group was founded in 1981 in Milan, Italy by a group of designers and architects who believed that their designs should consist of different textures, colours, patterns and shapes. Memphis was a reaction against the slick, smart, warm, black humorless design of the 1970's. They wanted to give their designs more personality. The bright colours they used were a huge contrast against the big bold brown furniture of the early 1900’s. They found inspiration from the previous movements Pop Design and Art Deco. The name of the group was invented after the Bob Dylan song ''Stuck Inside of Mobile with the Memphis Blues Again''.

    Below is one of the iconic designs of the Memphis Group. It is the Super Lamp by Martine Bedin which was exhibit in the first exhibition of the group in 1881. It is made of metal, which has been painted and lacquered. It is a half circle on wheels with six bulbs on it. At the time cars started to become very popular and slowly it become a common thing for families to have one- Bedin must have got the inspiration from there. Each bulb holder has a different bright colour, while the base is in a darker tone of blue. The idea of lights on wheels is very original and futuristic, you could move it very quickly and very practical to put on a desk. This design looks very fun and childish, it actually looks like a kids’ toy. 



    Right below the Super Lamp there is the Scoop which was designed recently, thirty years later. Australian designer Stephanie Ng has created these pendant light made from wood and metal that was inspired by the shape of an ice cream cone. The bulbs wrap around the globe tightly as possible to look like an ice cream cone. The top part of the pendent is light brown, like the colour of the cone and the bulb is white- like the ice cream. The cord from which is hug is grey and has the texture very similar to a cone. The product looks like it is of very good quality and like the Super Lamp it is made from minimal lines. Both lamps have a fun character but this one is more smart and elegant.


    Another famous design from this time is the above Carlton Bookcase by Ettore Sottsass. It looks wooden but is made of cheap plastic laminates rather than fine material. Like the Super Lamp and all designs from the Memphis this set of shelves are very colourful with bright colours. It would defiantly light up a living room or an office. The designe is inspired from cactus, as we can see it has a very similar shape of this plant. When it was invented this was considered as a very luxurious object. The vivid colous and the abstraction of the shape looks like a painting! 

    Below is a set of table and chair from the early nineteen hundreds of Hector Guimard from Art Nuovoue. Look how a few years time can change design completely! This design has no connections at all from the previous ones we have seen. It is made out of wood with its natural colour- neutral brown. The design is very smart and stiff. It has a lot of details for decoration, while the other designs have no decoration at all. I personally prefer the Pop Design than this era, because I prefer more bright colours and fun designs.


Bibliography:
2009 Memphis http://www.design-technology.org/memphis1.htm 
2008 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hector_Guimard_(Mus%C3%A9e_des_BeauxArts_de_Lyon)_(5469543414).jpg
Hector 2013 http://www.contemporist.com/3
All searched on the 14th of December 2013