Heubert de Givenchy, associated mostly with Audrey
Hepburn, dressing her through most of her career, was a designer with purity
in style! He is well known for his suits, flirty dresses and LBD’s (little
black dress). He brought an elegance and sophistication to the 50’s and 60’s
that cannot be underestimated.
In 1927, Count Heubert de Givenchy was born in Beauvais, in
northern France. He started studying law when he was eighteen, but it only took him a few months to change to an art school in Paris. He worked alongside Balmain
and Dior, and also Schaparelli, until 1951 where he opened his own couture
house. His first collection was not made out of fine fabrics due to few
financial problems, but The Bettina Blouse- named after the model Bettina was a big
hit. It was made from a type of cotton that was usually used only for
fittings. It had a wide neck and fitted waist, and a dramatic sleeve. Those
layered sleeves personally remind me of flamenco costumes.
Unlike Chanel, whose style was mostly the typical skirt and blazer suit, Givenchy had very fun and flirty design. On the right is a Chanels’ suit from 1950 (only a year difference). Both designs are elegant and formal but yet with a complete different style. I imagine better Givenchys’ blouse worn on a younger lady, while the other would be more appropriate for someone over twenty five. The fabric Chanel used makes the garment look feminine and more stiff, tough The Bettina Blouse looks more playful and relaxed. The colours from Chanel – pink and gold are also more ladylike and elegant than the black and white from Givenchy’s. Both stlyes are not seen anymore, today in the market, but sixty years ago, these were both iconic garments.
"I've always wanted to create something that would not disappear with me, but would outlive me for fifty or maybe hundred years" -Huber de Givenchy
In 1954 Audrey Hepburn is seen in the movie Sabrina wearing
a wardrobe of Givenchy classics, many with the bateau neckline, which is widely
copied. Through worldwide distribution of the film, the designer becomes a
household name. Below is a dress that was worn in Sabrina, which became a huge
classic. It is a very beautiful white gown with black floral detailing embroidered all around.
It is a very modernistic design. It is very elegant and not everyone could pull
it off, but it looks great on Audrey Hepburn. He would later go on to also create costumes
for Funny Face and Charade. Givenchy also becomes the first major couturier to
produce a ready- to- wear line.
Givenchy’s gown looks very similar to something that is worn
today, in fact I found a Versace dress from the twenty first century that has a
very similar design. They are both strapless and corseted with a big bulky
skirt. They are very elegant and flirty, though since Versaces is black it
looks much more smart and sophisticated. For decoration, Versaces has a shiny
fabric for the bustier and a bit on the side of the skirt. It looks very
classy. I imagine
the white dress worn on a more fun and energetic lady at a day event, while, the
black one would be more appropriate at night.
Audrey Hepburn continued to work with Givenchy her whole career and she wore his clothes on and off the set, in honour of their ongoing relationship. She also becomes the face of his fragrance the L’Interdit. In 1988 Givenchy sells his brand to LVMH, the fashion corporation tht also own Louis Vuitton and in 1995 he retires from designing. Riccardo Tisci is designing for this brand now and is still making a huge success.
Bibliography:
Lisa January 19th 2011 http://www.coletterie.com/fashion-history/hubert-de-givenchy-couturier-confidant
Septemeber 20th
2011 http://bpardue.blogspot.com/2011/09/1950s-chanel.html
August 11 2010 Closet http://closetmelbourne.blogspot.com/2010/08/iconic-dress-audrey-hepburn-in-sabrina.html
All searched on the 9th of December 2013
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